Safita Masters Middle Eastern Cuisine

If kitschy, hookah-laden dens are your idea of a Middle Eastern dining experience, then the newly-opened Safita is not for you. The magic of Safita comes not from the carpets on the walls, but from the kitchen. Run by the gracious and hospitable Hassoun family, an evening at Safita is homey, comfortable and absolutely delicious.

The cozy dining room lit by overhead lanterns and gleams with hammered copper accents around the bar and exposed kitchen. The décor is tasteful, not gimmicky or contrived. Rich, warm tones weave throughout the space and don’t overpower, leaving you to focus on what you’re really there for: the food.

“Everyone always wanted to open a restaurant with my mom,” says Khoder Hassoun, Safita’s proprietor, “because her cooking is so good. So, we decided to do it together.” Chef Amal Hassoun is the culinary force behind Safita. Petite and quiet, Chef Hassoun seems content to let her cooking speak for her.

The first dish to grace our table is a trio of green olives, a light and subtle olive oil and za’atar -- a mixture of sumac, oregano and other herbs. The pita goes into the olive oil first, and then the za’atar, for a toasty little zing. Now that Safita has my attention, I’m ready to order.

A generous bowl of tabouleh arrives next. The key to a top-notch tabouleh is getting the ingredient ratios right. Safita knocks this simple salad out of the park. Delicate and perfectly balanced, the lemon, mint and parsley dance on the tongue, and there’s just enough burgul wheat to hold it together. I don’t surrender my fork until the bowl is empty.

Of course, you’re wondering about the hummus. Safita’s, topped with chopped parsley, chick peas and a little punch of paprika, is smooth, creamy and obviously fresh. It’s flavorful and rich in the way that only homemade hummus can be.

The mixed grill entrée, a plate of well-marinated shish tawook (chicken), kefta (a seasoned mixture of ground lamb and beef) and shish Kebab (steak), is lush and moist, and served with rice and grilled peppers and onions.  Like most things at Safita, it’s not over-presented or over-prepared. It’s just really yummy.

When you visit, don’t skip dessert. A real standout is the cheese ma’amoul, a tempting, tasty cheese-filled pastry. The oven-baked sweet cheese, wrapped in dough and drizzled with qater syrup (a mixture of sugar and rosewater that perfumes the dish, rather than dominating it) is served warm and accented with crushed pistachios. Dreamy is the word that comes to mind.

Safita is a little like the stall at the souq where all the locals go, the one the tourists never find. You go there because you know it’s the real deal. And Safita is definitely the real deal.

Safita is located at 2217 Post Road in Fairfield. They serve lunch and dinner, and offer take out and catering services. Call them at (203) 319-0000.

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