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How hot is HOT? This July has given new meaning to the word. If this sweltering weather is what we have to look forward to for the rest of the season make sure that your air conditioning is humming, that you keep those ceiling fans spinning and that your ice trays are constantly filled.
When the temperature soars and the humidity becomes as thick as honey our appetites change and our food focus becomes as chilled as the long forgotten winter snow. The thought of turning on the oven or lighting a burner becomes taboo, any extra heat in the house an affront to our self survival sensibilities. Our mission is to keep cool at all costs.
Of course one can choose to fire up the grill, keeping the infernal heat at spatulas length of the kitchen but you might have to pick straws, roll the dice or ask for a volunteer to venture out and stand in front of that fiery outdoor furnace. The poor grill master general might need a well deserved commendation after completing his or her blistering assignment.
A smarter solution to the dilemma that the summer brings to the professional chef and home cook alike is to think raw. Salad can become king of the menu process and pre-prepared proteins like smoked salmon or trout, savory salumeri, local cheeses or high quality cans of tuna or sardines can be combined to make a meal that coolly suits the season. A reliable local fish monger will steam some shrimp for you and there is nothing wrong with picking up a high quality rotisserie chicken from a dependable market. Why not let them do the hot, heavy lifting for you as you plan your fresh summer dinner.
I think that an abbreviated buffet is a great way to approach hot weather dining. Start with a platter of a variety of vegetables and greens, leaves of romaine or red leaf, crisp ruby radishes, sliced heirloom tomatoes, chunks of Kirby cucumbers, a tumble of scallions, you get the idea. Add a bowl of a mix of imported olives, a slab or two of cheese, that cut up rotisserie chicken, iced shrimp, rosy smoked salmon, a little prosciutto and salami and all of a sudden summer dining doesn't seem so bad. A loaf of crisp bread, an array of condiments, mustards, chutneys, oil and vinegar are added to round out the palette. Sounds like a pretty easy way to have a feast with out lighting a fire. You are only limited by what you find while foraging, your inspiration and imagination.
The following basic vinaigrette recipe is just that. From this base you can make a myriad of sauces. You can change the vinegars and oil; add herbs or purees to make it your own. And you don't have to light a fire to make this most basic of sauces.
BASIC VINAIGRETTE
Yield 1 cup
1/3 cup vinegar
2/3 cup oil
1 tbs mustard
1 med shallot minced
Salt and fresh pepper to taste
Whisk together all of the ingredients except the oil. Add it in a slow stream whisking constantly until blended. If it breaks as it sits just re-whisk or shake.
-----Philip McGrath owns and operates the Iron Horse Grill, which is housed the historic former train station building in Pleasantville. He also owns Pony Express To Go, an all natural fast food restaurant just across the park from the Iron Horse. You can learn more about both by visiting their websites at www.ironhorsegrill.com and www.ponyexpresstogo.com. His Local Chef column appears here weekly.
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