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If I had a pound of spaghetti for every hard, rubbery meatball I've been served, I could open my own Italian restaurant. Thankfully, I won't have to, thanks to Giulio Cavalli, chef of Luigi's in Fairfield.
Tricks of the trade in meatball production vary wildly. Some insist it's the meat, or blend of meats, that offer the secret. For others, it's the seasoning and cooking methods that are claimed to be the key. As somewhat of a meatball master myself, I believe it's the light touch in mixing and the addition of water (yep, plain old H2O) that keep these tasty morsels juicy and tender.
While I don't think Giulio is willing to divulge his recipe to the masses, meatball fans can rejoice knowing they can pop by Luigi's any time to savor an exceptional example of this cliched Italian cuisine staple. They're offered over spaghetti, but personally, I'm partial to the meatball grinder which is truly one of the best of its kind in our area. The sandwich starts with an outstanding, sub-style roll that's heated to crispy-crusted perfection and retains a bready "chew" inside. Three meatballs - we'll call them golf ball-plus sized - rest in the bun, slathered with just the right amount of tangy, kicky red sauce and a generous but not overwhelming topping of melted mozzarella. Unlike some versions of the hero, this one is actually manageable and doesn't fall apart, even after being wrapped in foil to go. The soft, moist and flavorful meatballs, though, manage to be light, coming just slightly and delicately undone when you bite into them.
The great food at Luigi's doesn't stop at meatballs. The chef does a wonderful eggplant timballo - a sort of pasta casserole - that's wrapped in thin-sliced eggplant and then baked and served blanketed in marinara as well as some interesting pastas, entrees and pizzas. The staff is friendly and prices won't break the bank. Luigi's is located at 170 Post Road in Fairfield, right on the Blackrock border. Mangia!
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