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While Darien Cheese and Fine Foods carries around 200 cheeses at any given time, owner Ken Skovron says it's quality, not quantity that makes his shop the premier source for cheeses in the area. "The point is to sell cheese when it's at its optimum ripeness and in its best condition," he says. "As a cheese monger, I start by buying only the finest quality products from the top producers in the world. But it goes beyond those parameters. Once the cheese comes in, we need to assess whether or not it's ready to consume as is or if it needs further aging." Given the latter, Skovron relegates selections that haven't yet reached peak condition, texture, and ripeness to one of his two aging facilities. Unlike large purveyors with big selections - most of which purchase pre-cut cheeses that they wrap and slap into their refrigerated bins - he'll sell no cheese before its time.
Skovron has been the shop's proprietor for nearly a quarter century. For this cheese monger, artisanal selections made the old fashioned way rule and a host of factors, from the geographical source to the cow's, or goat's, or sheep's diet are all crucial considerations. Approximately 80 percent of the shop's cheeses come from Europe where Skovron says the tradition of cheese-making remains a true craft, requiring many, many years of apprenticeship and scientific understanding. Though he embraces, encourages, and patronizes some American regional cheesemakers to fill in the balance of the product he sells, he's careful to work only with those who take their occupation as seriously as he takes his mission to sell nothing but the best to his customers.
In addition to cheeses, the store also sells exceptional charcuterie selections including several styles of aged sausages, salamis, and prosciutto, and nearly 800 gallons of Skovron's own, house-blended olive oil from California. Items like fig and cherry conserves, marcona almonds, fresh baked artisan bread, sauces and pasta, and bottles of aged balsamic vinegar line the shelves acrosss from the cheese counter. At the back of the shop, a collection of hand hewn pottery items are on display as well.
Most of the cheeses offered at Darien Cheese and Fine Foods are made from un-pasteurized milk which Skvron says leads to a healthier, more enjoyable cheese product. Some of the area's top restaurants, including Westport's The Dressing Room, Darien's The Goose, and Rebecca's in Greenwich purchase their cheese selections from Skovron. With about 40 feet of wheels and hunks of creamy goodness to choose from, lovers of the culinary pursuits and the uninitiated alike will be fascinated by a trip to this shop, reminiscent of the ones in Holland. Skovron and his knowledgeable staff enjoy explaining the origins and characteristics of every cheese they sell and the proper libations to pair with them."We offer tastes of every cheese we sell," says Skovron. "I want customers to walk out the door excited to share and enjoy what they've just bought."
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