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Mathew Poovanthanical, a partner in the booming Fairfield County-based Coromandel group of Indian eateries, brings a touch of paradise from his native Kerala to his work. He is humble and hospitable as he moves through Cormandels new digs in Southport, chatting with diners about the food, the franchise and the lush landscape from which he hails. They call Kerala Gods own country, he says. Its beautiful.
The Southport restaurant is the seventh reincarnation for this group, one more footstep in Coromandels steady march eastward, with other Fairfield County locations in Stamford, Darien and South Norwalk. The month-old space is located just off of exit 19, in the former Kicking Horse Tavern location. And despite its proximity to the most heavily trafficked highway on the Eastern Seaboard, Coromandel Southport is a quiet oasis that delights the senses.
Hindi markings grace the beams overhead, the red lettering a soothing distraction. They are poems, Mathew says. By the ancient poet Kabir. He talks about the importance of this moment. He tells us we cant wait for tomorrow, whatever it is, we must do it today.
On the day of my visit, Chef Andrew Payyappilly, who also hails from the Eden that is Kerala, certainly seized the moment. Lunch was delicious, and we were lucky enough to sample one of his favorites. The Kerala Kootu is a vegetarian dish of mixed vegetables, spinach and black chickpeas cooked in a coconut paste with cumin and curry. Its a rich and wonderful dish that will leave you craving a cozy spot where you can curl up and slip into a temporary Nirvana. Another standout was the Mulligatawny soup, a lentil and vegetable purée with enough flavor and spice to warm the coldest afternoon. Other standards from the canon of Indian cuisine chicken tikka and vegetable samosas satisfy as well.
The newest Coromandel is as reliably enjoyable as the other locations, the attention to detail as meticulous. Like the others, they offer take-out, catering and the signature Coromandel sumptuous buffet, only $10.95, Monday through Friday, and $13.95 on the weekend.
Do yourself and your karma a favor and visit the newest Coromandel, located at 17 Pease Avenue, in Southport.
Have you sampled Coromandels latest incarnation? Do you have a go-to dish? Let your neighbors know and leave a comment here, or share your thoughts with me via email at mmorelli@mainstreetconnect.us.
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