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Coromandel: A Family Friendly Food Adventure

For those who think Indian food is all about curry, think again. Indian cuisine is one of the world’s most colorful, hearty, and delicious and it can be both healthful and kid friendly.

Whether you’re already a fan or just an adventurous foodie with a couple of picky eaters in tow, Coromandel in Norwalk is the place to go start your Indian adventure. Charming owner Gopi Nair delights in serving as tour guide and he’s a master at suggesting items to please your kids and save your waistline. Start off with Shaam Savera, colorful little spinach dumplings stuffed with cheese that hold together like a tight sushi roll and proffer very mild flavors. They’re served atop a contrasting pool of bright, tangy-sweet tomato sauce flavored lightly with fennel and a hint of honey. Some hot Naan bread, freshly baked to order in the kitchen’s Tandoor (clay) oven is perfect for dipping in the leftover sauce.  Better yet, ask for a Poori, an unleavened whole wheat bread that emerges from the kitchen puffed up as big as a throw pillow, deflating when poked with a knife to become a crispy, buttery delight.

The Masala Dosa, a show-stopper that’s also kid-friendly, is a giant burrito-like crepe rolled to the size of a small loaf of French bread. It’s stuffed with a very lightly spiced potato mixture flecked with fresh peas. No need to tell the little adventurers that their “tortilla” is made of rice and lentils. Alongside the mammoth stuffed pancake come two sauces, a classic Indian sambar – a sort of slightly spicy, savory vegetable stew – and a lightly sweet, creamy-white coconut chutney that freshens the rich smokiness of the dosa’s filling as sour cream to a baked potato.

Chicken Tikka Masala, chunks of boneless roasted chicken breast bathed in a creamy (via yogurt) tomato-based Masala sauce, was created in Great Britain by an Indian chef trying to appease a delicate English palate. Served over classic Indian Basmati rice, it’s mild and velvety and it tastes rich but is actually fairly healthy; a great choice for kids. For a grownup dish with some kicky heat, try the gorgeous rack of juicy lamb (Vizag ki Gorre), marinated in a secret spice blend and roasted to a deep, dark char in the Tandoor oven. Despite its hearty meatiness, the use of the clay oven and components of the sauce once again make for a relatively low-fat dish.

Shown in recent studies to prevent and heal a host of illnesses, turmeric gives the sea bass dish (Machli Tikki) a mustard yellow hue. A simple marinade of lemon juice, ginger, garlic and green chilis infuse a kicky but not overbearing heat to the inherently buttery-flavored and juicy fish. For dessert, the whole family will love the hot carrot pudding, scented with cinnamon and cardamom and topped with a scoop of coconut ice cream.

Coromandel offers lunch and dinner a la carte, or you can choose the extensive, fixed price weekday lunch buffet with a host of vegetarian, chicken, lamb, bread and rice options, all for just $11 per person. On Saturday and Sunday, the selections expand even further, but the price is just $14. 86 Washington Street; phone 852-1213; www.coromandelcuisine.com.

 

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