Martel, the tiny Fairfield bistro and bar occupied for many years by the beloved Rorys, has done its predecessor proud. Its not just the limited size that packs this restaurant nightly. Instead, the straightforward and sturdy menu, friendly staff, and a simple but sophisticated bistro décor take equal measures of credit for Martels success.
Our server was quick to accommodate the Gimlet purist among us when she asked whether the drink was made with fresh, rather than Roses lime juice. We do use Roses but wed be happy to squeeze it fresh for you, she said cheerily. No problem! Not only was the Gimlet perfect, but a vodka martini, James Bond-style, arrived with a lovely icy film on top, shaken to the bruising point as requested. Page one in the bistro-bar handbook: a well-made cocktail. Check. The assorted meat and cheese charcuterie board comes with slices of quality sopressata, exquisitely delicate, vaguely musty (as it should be) prosciutto, and an excellent sherry-infused country pork pate. Cheese selections include a crumbly, sharp, crystal-flecked Grana Padano, sharp Piave (an Italian cheese whose flavor lies somewhere between cheddar and Romano), Brie that was just slightly under ripe and uber creamy Fontina.
A Pane Cotte appetizer, a sort of cross between a savory bread pudding and a homestyle, one-dish, Italian mamas casserole is a rich and hearty mixture of white beans, escarole, salty pancetta, bread cubes and a crust of Asiago cheese on top. Nothing short of superb are slices of velvety smoked salmon draped atop a lightly crisped potato pancake and a layer of creamy celeriac slaw. The salmon, without going overboard, was just salty enough to cut through the rich, lightly tangy but mild dressing of the crunchy, tangy slaw and the potato cake served as the perfect starchy base.
The duck shepherds pie is a rich and creative take on the classic English casserole, with tender slices of moist duck mingled with mashed potatoes, peas and a host of root vegetables. Most fun, though, is Martel's reinvention of the BLT. Theirs, the toasty PLT, adds creamy mozzarella to its sandwich of pancetta, arugula, and tomato.
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